paris 2018
I thought I would share some thoughts and pictures from our trip to France and Belgium this past month. It is still fresh in my mind and I know that if I allow myself to procrastinate (which I have a proclivity to do), I will fail to remember some details that made this trip so rich in flavour and colour- and which may be useful to you if you just so happen to be planning a trip.
This first post will discuss Paris, where our trip began and where I spent some time alone with my sister who had lived and studied there for the previous 9 months. Although I could go on and on about the popular things to do in the City of Lights, I must admit we didn't do most of these things this time. I first went to Paris with my family in 2008, and we (of course) visited the Eiffel Tower/ Notre-Dame/ Louvres/ Musée d'Orsay/ L'Orangerie/ Champs Elysées/ Versailles etc. etc. However, this time around, we opted against attractions which constitute the quintessential Parisian experience (though we did go back to Montmartre and said hi to Mr. Eiffel)! My sweet sister sought to show me the things which had become her favourite things in the city once the tourist attractions had seemingly lost their novelty. What a gift to see Paris from the point of view of someone who knew its streets, quirks and the habits of locals- it was truly magic.
Paris is, after all, a city rich in culture and things to do, and we really just scratched the surface during our couple days there. But I digress.
Paris- ah, what a magical city. It's romantic, lively and cultural- it's a city that wears the night as well as the day, and which always leaves you wanting a little more. I can't help but disagree with the statement that Paris is overrated (which I have heard a lot). Clichés are clichés for a reason, aren't they? Is Paris crowded and overwhelming? Sure. But her charm, in my opinion, trumps her chaos and flashiness.
M.J. Rose puts it well: "I think Paris smells not just sweet but melancholy and curious, sometimes sad but always enticing and seductive. She's a city for all senses, for artists and writers and musicians and dreamers, for fantasies, for long walks and wine and lovers and, yes, for mysteries."
1- Eiffel Tower
It goes without saying that the Eiffel Tower is a must-see when in Paris. She's the emblem of the city, a structure representing in many ways France's history and character. That said, we didn't go up the tower, mostly because of the price and the wait. Call me cynical all you want, but why would I want a view of Paris without Eiffel in it? (instead, I think the best views would be from Notre-Dame Cathedral or Montparnasse). Instead, we just walked around it, and enjoyed a picnicked of baguette and camembert in a nearby park with the tower in sight.
2- Le Marais
Le Marais is perhaps my favorite neighborhood in Paris- it's a historical district filled with character and classical Parisian architecture. Once home to Robespierre and Victor Hugo, le Marais is a center for Paris' artistic milieu. It is alive with trendy restaurants, bars, bookshops, boutiques and art galleries. We spent hours walking around the bustling streets of Le Marais which, by the way, is one of the only parts of Paris which has retained its medieval charm after Napoleon and Haussman's renovating of the city in the 19th century. While in the Marais, we made sure to go to Le Quartier Juif (Paris' Jewish Quartier) and stopped for a delicious meal at L'As Du Falaffel (recommended by Buzzfeed here). Don't miss out on this borough while in Paris!
3- Gardens and parks
We enjoyed three of Paris' gardens during our time there: Les Tuileries, Le Jardin du Luxembourg and les Buttes Chaumont. These are inarguably three of Paris' most beautiful gardens. To start with, les Tuileries gardens are located between The Louvre and la Place de la Concorde. The beautiful space used to be complete with the Tuileries Palace, which was burnt down during the Revolution by the Paris Commune, in 1871. The garden is a delightful area to read a book and take a stroll- which is exactly what we did. Le Jardin du Luxembourg, on the other hand, is situated in the 6th arrondissement. The Luxembourg palace is still standing, and can be visited. We enjoyed reading thick paperbacks in by Medici Fountain, watching children play with small vintage sailboats by the pond, and picnicking with bread, cheese and charcuterie meats picked up nearby. It was delightful! Finally, Les Buttes Chaumont is a park located in the northeast of Paris. From its large cliff and Temple Sibylle, we had a beautiful view of the city. We enjoyed its vast sloping green space, large promenade, bridges and flowers.
Les Tuileries
5-Galerie Vivienne
This is one of my sister's favorite spots in the city. The Galerie Vivienne is located in Paris' 2nd arrondissement (one of the poshest areas) and is a beautiful covered passage. Its mosaics, detailed architecture, high ceilings and cupola had me swooning- and the way the light painted itself through the glass had a poetry to it, as if inviting us to stay a little longer. The gallery is filled with beautiful shops and restaurants, and is well worth a walk-through.
6- Montmartre and L'Hotel Particulier
I love Montmartre. It's a large hill at the North of Paris, where you'll find La Basilique Sacré-Coeur and, on a more flamboyant note, the Moulin Rouge. We walked around the area and went for cocktails and tapas at l'Hotel Particulier with the loveliest relative of ours who lives in Paris (and just exhuded an energy and hospitality that is positively Parisian). And my goodness- it was unbelievable. The hotel is an old home with a beautiful view of the city, yet offers a sense of privacy because it is nestled in a chic, private garden. It was such an incredible experience- and a gift to our taste buds!
7- Cafés and pastries
Of course, I love seeking a good latte in whatever region I am- and this month in Europe. Paris doesn't have a third wave coffee scene that I would compare to that of Montreal, Vancouver or Seattle... Coffee shops in Paris are a lot older, pricier and seem to emphasize pastries more than their coffee itself. That said, Lau brought me to "Paul café" (a chain you can find throughout the city) and we also oohed and aahed at "Café de Flore" (one of Paris' oldest coffeehouses, depicted in Jean-Marc Vallée's 2011 film).
8- Le Quartier Latin et la Seine
Paris' Latin Quarter is bohemian, student-oriented and lively (a great place for night-life). We spent an afternoon walking along its winding streets, peeking into its myriad of bistros, bookshops, ethnic restaurants. You can also contemplate the city's famous schools like la Sorbonne, Jussieu, and l'Ecole Normale Superieure. Of course, we made sure to take the long route along the Seine afterwards (because, well, it's the Seine).
9- La Mosquée de Paris
This is seriously one of my favourite things we did in Paris. This was my second time at the city's largest mosque, built in the 1920s and just a few feet away from the natural history museum. Visiting places of worship (including those of religious traditions different than my own) is deeply important to me when I travel, and I am so grateful we made time to visit the mosque during our time in Paris. The mosque's architecture nods to Hispano-Moresque architecture, with its intricate details, carpets and painted mosaic ceilings. We had a lovely time in the tearoom, enjoying teas and Meditteranean and Mahgrebian desserts (give me baklavas all day every day). The tearoom's atmosphere is exhilarating and offered a great place to spend some time chatting with friends, whilst nodding to Paris' large Middle Eastern population.
10- Bon Marché
Have mercy. Bon Marché outclasses Hudson's Bay Company, and puts Target to shame. This place is Paris' first ever department store, and smells of French elegance, class and style (and, ahem, money). Selling a large variety of high-end goods, Bon Marché was so much enjoyable to walk around. We looked at furniture, books, bags, art, makeup and, of course, clothes (so many clothes). On one level, you can find La Grande Épicerie de Paris, where Parisians find their gourmet food products. While we didn't buy anything (we're students after all), we loved observing the newest Parisian trends and discovering the building's exquisite, grandiose architecture.
I do not think I could ever get enough of the excitement, history, romance, magic and mystery that is Paris. These were some of our favourite outings, and I am already dreaming of the day I can go back. Have you been to Paris? What were your favorite things to do?
This first post will discuss Paris, where our trip began and where I spent some time alone with my sister who had lived and studied there for the previous 9 months. Although I could go on and on about the popular things to do in the City of Lights, I must admit we didn't do most of these things this time. I first went to Paris with my family in 2008, and we (of course) visited the Eiffel Tower/ Notre-Dame/ Louvres/ Musée d'Orsay/ L'Orangerie/ Champs Elysées/ Versailles etc. etc. However, this time around, we opted against attractions which constitute the quintessential Parisian experience (though we did go back to Montmartre and said hi to Mr. Eiffel)! My sweet sister sought to show me the things which had become her favourite things in the city once the tourist attractions had seemingly lost their novelty. What a gift to see Paris from the point of view of someone who knew its streets, quirks and the habits of locals- it was truly magic.
Paris is, after all, a city rich in culture and things to do, and we really just scratched the surface during our couple days there. But I digress.
Paris- ah, what a magical city. It's romantic, lively and cultural- it's a city that wears the night as well as the day, and which always leaves you wanting a little more. I can't help but disagree with the statement that Paris is overrated (which I have heard a lot). Clichés are clichés for a reason, aren't they? Is Paris crowded and overwhelming? Sure. But her charm, in my opinion, trumps her chaos and flashiness.
M.J. Rose puts it well: "I think Paris smells not just sweet but melancholy and curious, sometimes sad but always enticing and seductive. She's a city for all senses, for artists and writers and musicians and dreamers, for fantasies, for long walks and wine and lovers and, yes, for mysteries."
So, here were some of my favorites.
1- Eiffel Tower
It goes without saying that the Eiffel Tower is a must-see when in Paris. She's the emblem of the city, a structure representing in many ways France's history and character. That said, we didn't go up the tower, mostly because of the price and the wait. Call me cynical all you want, but why would I want a view of Paris without Eiffel in it? (instead, I think the best views would be from Notre-Dame Cathedral or Montparnasse). Instead, we just walked around it, and enjoyed a picnicked of baguette and camembert in a nearby park with the tower in sight.
2- Le Marais
Le Marais is perhaps my favorite neighborhood in Paris- it's a historical district filled with character and classical Parisian architecture. Once home to Robespierre and Victor Hugo, le Marais is a center for Paris' artistic milieu. It is alive with trendy restaurants, bars, bookshops, boutiques and art galleries. We spent hours walking around the bustling streets of Le Marais which, by the way, is one of the only parts of Paris which has retained its medieval charm after Napoleon and Haussman's renovating of the city in the 19th century. While in the Marais, we made sure to go to Le Quartier Juif (Paris' Jewish Quartier) and stopped for a delicious meal at L'As Du Falaffel (recommended by Buzzfeed here). Don't miss out on this borough while in Paris!
3- Gardens and parks
We enjoyed three of Paris' gardens during our time there: Les Tuileries, Le Jardin du Luxembourg and les Buttes Chaumont. These are inarguably three of Paris' most beautiful gardens. To start with, les Tuileries gardens are located between The Louvre and la Place de la Concorde. The beautiful space used to be complete with the Tuileries Palace, which was burnt down during the Revolution by the Paris Commune, in 1871. The garden is a delightful area to read a book and take a stroll- which is exactly what we did. Le Jardin du Luxembourg, on the other hand, is situated in the 6th arrondissement. The Luxembourg palace is still standing, and can be visited. We enjoyed reading thick paperbacks in by Medici Fountain, watching children play with small vintage sailboats by the pond, and picnicking with bread, cheese and charcuterie meats picked up nearby. It was delightful! Finally, Les Buttes Chaumont is a park located in the northeast of Paris. From its large cliff and Temple Sibylle, we had a beautiful view of the city. We enjoyed its vast sloping green space, large promenade, bridges and flowers.
Les Tuileries
Jardin du Luxembourg
Buttes Chaumont
5-Galerie Vivienne
This is one of my sister's favorite spots in the city. The Galerie Vivienne is located in Paris' 2nd arrondissement (one of the poshest areas) and is a beautiful covered passage. Its mosaics, detailed architecture, high ceilings and cupola had me swooning- and the way the light painted itself through the glass had a poetry to it, as if inviting us to stay a little longer. The gallery is filled with beautiful shops and restaurants, and is well worth a walk-through.
I love Montmartre. It's a large hill at the North of Paris, where you'll find La Basilique Sacré-Coeur and, on a more flamboyant note, the Moulin Rouge. We walked around the area and went for cocktails and tapas at l'Hotel Particulier with the loveliest relative of ours who lives in Paris (and just exhuded an energy and hospitality that is positively Parisian). And my goodness- it was unbelievable. The hotel is an old home with a beautiful view of the city, yet offers a sense of privacy because it is nestled in a chic, private garden. It was such an incredible experience- and a gift to our taste buds!
Of course, I love seeking a good latte in whatever region I am- and this month in Europe. Paris doesn't have a third wave coffee scene that I would compare to that of Montreal, Vancouver or Seattle... Coffee shops in Paris are a lot older, pricier and seem to emphasize pastries more than their coffee itself. That said, Lau brought me to "Paul café" (a chain you can find throughout the city) and we also oohed and aahed at "Café de Flore" (one of Paris' oldest coffeehouses, depicted in Jean-Marc Vallée's 2011 film).
Paris' Latin Quarter is bohemian, student-oriented and lively (a great place for night-life). We spent an afternoon walking along its winding streets, peeking into its myriad of bistros, bookshops, ethnic restaurants. You can also contemplate the city's famous schools like la Sorbonne, Jussieu, and l'Ecole Normale Superieure. Of course, we made sure to take the long route along the Seine afterwards (because, well, it's the Seine).
9- La Mosquée de Paris
This is seriously one of my favourite things we did in Paris. This was my second time at the city's largest mosque, built in the 1920s and just a few feet away from the natural history museum. Visiting places of worship (including those of religious traditions different than my own) is deeply important to me when I travel, and I am so grateful we made time to visit the mosque during our time in Paris. The mosque's architecture nods to Hispano-Moresque architecture, with its intricate details, carpets and painted mosaic ceilings. We had a lovely time in the tearoom, enjoying teas and Meditteranean and Mahgrebian desserts (give me baklavas all day every day). The tearoom's atmosphere is exhilarating and offered a great place to spend some time chatting with friends, whilst nodding to Paris' large Middle Eastern population.
10- Bon Marché
Have mercy. Bon Marché outclasses Hudson's Bay Company, and puts Target to shame. This place is Paris' first ever department store, and smells of French elegance, class and style (and, ahem, money). Selling a large variety of high-end goods, Bon Marché was so much enjoyable to walk around. We looked at furniture, books, bags, art, makeup and, of course, clothes (so many clothes). On one level, you can find La Grande Épicerie de Paris, where Parisians find their gourmet food products. While we didn't buy anything (we're students after all), we loved observing the newest Parisian trends and discovering the building's exquisite, grandiose architecture.
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| The most expansive and expensive variety of stillwater bottles I have ever seen in my life. |
I do not think I could ever get enough of the excitement, history, romance, magic and mystery that is Paris. These were some of our favourite outings, and I am already dreaming of the day I can go back. Have you been to Paris? What were your favorite things to do?
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